Catharine Robb Whyte – Letters

was about three inches thick and tied together with [th..ys] in a sort of design like this. Its a bad drawing but gives some [left column sketch of a bamboo fence, pencil drawing] [right column] idea of what I mean. It looked so neat and yet was [right column] a light sort of fence.

[right column] Then we went to the Memorial Building to the [right column] Emperor Meiji which is on high ground at the [right column] end of a long avenue, built of stone and very [right column] imposing. As the Lincoln Memorial is. The trees surrounded the building and along the road were also quite recently planted though quite large trees.

At the Entrance was a little stand, such as one might 'use?' to hang fire irons on, pokers etc. On which were hung little feather dusters with handles two feet long, a [left column drawing of a feather duster with long handle, pencil drawing] [right column] convenient length to dust ones shoes off. Then by [right column] walking across three mats, two wet, your boot soles [right column] were fairly clean. There were boxes of shoe covers at [right column] the door, and little Japanese girls to help find you the [right column] right size and help you put them on. People wearing [right column] Japanese clogs (or whatever they are called) were given straw [right column] ones to wear. The things we put over our shoes were made [right column] of cloth with an elastic around the hole in the top, but [right column] with heels were a bit hard to keep on. There were lots of people going in & coming out all the time. We walked up stairs, a white canvas being stretched where anyone should walk. the plan of the building was like this {arrow from 'this' to sketch on left column}, similar to the Art Museum [left column sketch of building, pencil drawing] [right column] in Boston where you come up stairs [right column] into a rotunda then turn to the right [right column] into a large gallery. The walls were [right column] beautifully finished in a dark stained oak forming frames for large pictures representing scenes in the life of the Emperor. Some spaces were left bare as the picture was evidently not finished, but the subject

We stepped over a sort of sill in the gate. I believe the gate itself wasn't open just doors in the gate. In the center of the minor court was the shrine, about 10 feet above the level of the court, {word struck out: 'and'} an open sort of platform with a roof over it and a flight of rather steep steps all along the side we faced as we entered. At the top of the steps under the roof was a sort of trough lined with white cloth and into which coins were thrown. Every one was bowing very low and in an efforts to do what was right it was hard to see everything. There were lots of people there too. Then we went out another entrance and examined the fountain on that side which was not as crowded. The water bubbled up in the center and overflowed the side into a gutter {word struck out} at the base of the tub part. The bottom of which was lined with round stones. Then we walked out another way - nearly half a mile I should say. Some beautiful open stretches with trees bordering the lawn. At one place we came to a lovely pavillion where people were eating their lunch. In the center a person selling post cards and a man making tea which people could evidently have. on the right were three or four sections with straw matting and all filled with different families have tea and lunch in Japanese style. In the left hand side of the {'illegible'} shaped pavilion were tables and benches for those who prefered them. Everything was very quiet and orderly and nothing about the building showed any wear and tear, like grandpa I couldn't help but

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO" Imperial Hotel Tokyo

several pieces of paper {word struck out} in curls about a foot or more in length, like wood shavings after planing. Mr Miyaoka explained it was the sign to tell people to keep off the platform. Evidently it was a place for priests to purify themselves before entering the shrine. But it was such an attractive way to say "Keep off". on the left was another shelter, a fountain where people purified themselves. Wind and water are both purifiers. The Priest can purify one by waving his hand or something back & forth to make wind. but the water is used by everyone. The fountain was in a large stone square place. You stepped up to it and the top came to ones waist, there were a great many wooden bamboo dippers, round on the end with sides and a long handle. People would drink the water and rinse their mouths and also wash their hands. {struck out: 'In another place'} to be well purified before entering the shrine. Another building was where you took your babies who were making their first pilgrimage to the shrine and either they bought something or the priest waved something over them. Im not quite sure what happened but one tiny baby was there. Im behind on the right were the buildings {word struck out: 'wh'} corresponding to a rectory, where the priest or monks or whatever they are resided. As we went to the gate of the inner raised court, there were two priest coming out followed by a bride. They passed before we got a very good look, so perhaps one of the priests was really a groom.

in native costume and some of the children. A great many men too wore the native dress though a large part wore European costume. There were wide avenues with lovely woods on either side and in some places lawns, all so natural looking and so lovely. I wish I had worn some - thing black for I felt very conspicious, in brown, {word struck out} we were the only Haoli people I'm sure and all the Japanese were in soft shades of black or dark blue. from the back you could {word struck out} catch glimpses of the red or green kimona underneath through the open place under the sleeve hole. It was a very orderly crowd, quiet yet happy looking and so well behaved as it was considered a priviledge to be allowed to enter the grounds. There was only a sign outside saying that you were prohibited to drive inside. break branches off trees or catch the birds and no further signs were needed inside. The avenue was about a quarter of a mile long and we went under a beautiful Tori gate made from natural wood. Two tree trunks forming the uprights and the weather had turned it all a rich gray. At the end of one long avenue we came to another gate leading to a large square place a few steps above the level of the park, in the center of which was a still higher platform on which was the shrine itself. It was such a lovely quiet setting in the midst of beautiful wood and the noises of the city were too far away to hear at the shrine. Inside the first sort of gate were various buildings. all with the graceful lines of the Japanese roof and all the buildings weathered. There were beautiful tall pine trees still supported by cables and wire for they were moved as large trees, and haven't as yet taken root sufficiently. On the right was a small platform with a roof over it and hanging between the {word struck out} uprights which supported the roof were

9 10 TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO" 11 Imperial Hotel Tokyo x National Gallery. I haven't even told you yet that we are here at just the right season. The plum blossums, pink and white are the only sign of spring, otherwise it is much like winter, but it will give us a chance to get sort of organized before the real spring arrives. The days are spring like but compared to the summer green of Honolulu it looks still pretty wintry. I wish you could see the wonderful coverings that some of the choice shrubs still have on. They are made of straw and x look like a series of todstools. I'll try to sketch the idea for [left column sketch of five multi-teired pointed shoots drawn in pencil, all grouped together and pointing off to the top left or top right away from the bases] [right column] you. Some are on shrubs over ten feet [right column] high and look like a bouquet. [right column] [indent] Mr Miyaoka has already telephoned [right column] numerous people that we are here and [right column] is doing a great deal more than he should [right column] for us, but I know he enjoys doing [right column] what he can for us for your sake. He [right column] said Today, that when you and Uncle John were here that he was older than Uncle John, but that he used to be a playmate of Uncle John his and that you were the one who appreciated his being kind to your brother, for Uncle John was too young to understand everything then. [indent] Mr Miyaoka had a car and we drove to the [illegible crossed out] Emperor Meigis Shrine. He was Emperor when you were here. We were left at one entrance of the large grounds or park that surrounds the shrine and with all the other pilgrims (or really people) walked through the gate. There were bus loods of Japanese people and some came in cars, but such a lot as there were. All the women were

out of there a taxi stopped trying to get us to ride. We stood on the sidewalk trying to decide what to do. The taxi blocked the street (this was a smaller side street) and two cars behind it began blowing their horns to make him move. However it had no affect though they kept their hands on the horn and such a noise. Even people inside looked out to see what was causing the comotion. When we walked on the taxi moved but not till then, and all during the [...] Mr Miyaoka was trying to tell us something. The system here is to blow horns almost continually. It sounds like France. After the hosiery we went to a very nice little place upstairs, and had English tea. toast and jam, and then set out again this time to land us at the hotel about six o'clock, just as the horses were being taken into the theater for the evening show. The theater is across the street from our room, and at noon we saw two horses being led up to the Stage entrance, maybe I wrote about this. They each had straw shoes on their feet to protect the stage floor, and they did look funny. Its been such fun watching the people go by on the street. Pete has promised to draw a sketch of a boy we saw tonight, {struck out: 'balanceup'} riding bycycle through a crowded district and balancing on one hand as a waiter would a tray with two cups of tea or rice. {struck out: 'on'} You do see the most astonishing things. {struck out: 'After'} Mr Miyaoka left as we reached the hotel, thinking by then the ladies party would be over and he could safely go home. After supper we were so weary we came up to bed and I started this letter or at least continued it until I got too sleepy to write more - and now it is another evening and another full day to tell you of. It was very fortunate that we arrived on a weekend as Saturday afternoon and Sunday Mr Miyaoka is free. Pete woke early and had a walk before breakfast and before I knew he had gone or come back. but even then I was up before eight. Mr Miyaoka came for us soon after ten and took us to see the Emperor Meiji's {word struck out} shrine and the

Pete and I having no real idea where we were going, and much to our surprise we were in another large department store. Again we went up in elevators and this time landed in a very interesting exhibition, more crowded that anything yet. There were lots of miniature scenes, lit up very attractively depicting events in history or maybe the life of the Emperor Meiji. After twenty - five or thirty scenes in miniature so beautifully done, we came to a large room full of cases, all sorts of documents, armor, swords or at least blades. screens. and rolls of writing. one that to us was the same as the rest, had been written by the emperor I believe. for everyone on reading it removed their hat. It was all very interesting though Pete & I weren't very sure what it was all about. We then left the big stores and started to walk home. I should imagine about as fas as from Jordan 'Marshes?'{dep store Mass} all the way up to the Somerset Hotel. The street was evidently having a subway built under it and the sidewalks which were made of cement blocks a foot square were all messed up. uneven, dirt places in between and a generally uneven walking place with blocks to step over. It added to the amount we had to watch and it really was a lively walk. The Ginza or main {word struck out: 'walking'} shopping street was the one we walked down and Mr Miyaoka wanted to show us what a mixture of stores there were. It was like any city which has to be built up after a fire and right next to a beautiful store with 'shrines?' would be a cheap place. Music blaring forth, lots of noise and bright colors. Something like Washington street with a few nice stores like 'Laureats?' still there. It was a wide street with both bright green narrow street cars and busses, and the cars all blowing horns and millions of bycycles. It was as much as your life was worth crossing streets, and we had to scurry across several. It was funny Mr Miyaoka

rush for it was crowded. The exhibition was very interesting and we saw one painting of a cock and hen painted with a few strokes that was a wonder. It was one of Seiko - the artist who's sketches were in the group grandpa had of ink drawings. It was far ahead of anything else. It was interesting that a lot of the modern things are like the trash they paint in the States. cubistic, only these were crude in color. poor perspective & too crowded looking. After this exhibit we saw a bit of the store including a dog show. My eyes were popping and so were Petes. for we had to see the people in the crowd, the wares for sale and keep an eye on the Miyaokas who seemed to dart through the crowds with the greatest ease. After this store we got into the car again, (the traffic really isn't bad, its just that its so unexpected. The object seems to be, to go around as many corners as possible, as fast as possible, blowing the horn as loud as possible and just missing as many bycycles. children and pedestrians as possible) We drove through the banking district and entered the most complicated department store I've ever seen. We {word struck out: 'saw'} met a man belonging to the store who led us through at a more rapid pace than even the Miyaokas' and we saw another very fine exhibition, and two other remarkably fine paintings. They were all done on silk eventually to be made into kakimons'. Again we picked the two pictures by the two most celebrated artists which was rather fun. After this one of the managers invited us into a private dining room connected with the restaurant and we had some delicious tea - I've never mentioned at all the amount

it on the Cantilever theory so that it would give and sway or bend during an earthquake, and it was the only building of its size that did stand then. As a matter of fact it is all out of line now and there are several cracks. but they don't matter for they are planned for. It is very intersting and modern. made of yellowish brick & stone but we rather like it. but more of it later.

Our bags didn't arrive for some time so we waited a bit & then called Mr 'Miyaoka?'. We'd only received my letter this morning and was all excited. Said he would come down in an hour. So we had lunch and waited for him. They came about two and Pete recognized them as they came in the door. Mr Miyaoka looking very spry in his diplomatic clothes, as he calls his cutaway, but Mrs Miyaoka had Japanese dress and a fur neck scarf was the only foreign thing. She looked so lovely in her dark kimono and I noticed once or twice a touch of red that showed of another kimono underneath. only when she moved her arms. We talked and chatted and had a very pleasant time for they are such fun, and then they suggested they take us around a bit.

The only way I can think to describe it would be to compare it with the equivalent in Boston, but even then it won't sound as strenous as it was. We drove first by the moat of the Imperial Palace and then headed for an exhibition of modern painting. This was being held in a department store. say like R. H. Whites during a Christmas

part on the handlebars or over the rear wheel, and also trycycle arrangements. It was all very bewildering at first for I tried to see everything at once and of course couldn't. The people are such fun to watch and so many bits of real Japan stuck in corners of the Modern parts. Its like any other city. Boston included, you have to look to find the typical parts any where.

Later evening and quite weary calves to the legs To continue where I left off. I hated to leave Yokohama station for there were so many people that were fun to watch - but naturally we had to go. The train is quite rapid. All electric and something like a subway but with nice blue plush up - bolstery. I was google eyed before we had gone half way, for one can see the monument to grandpa from the train and Pete remembered it was on a {word struck out: 'hill' above}on our left hand side, and a fifteen minute walk from Omori. which direction the walk was in he couldn't tell, but any way he kept an eagle eye out for it. Its a bit confusing trying to tell where one is, for though you know the name of the station, you are completely at sea when confronted with a lot of characters. I'd forgotten that Japan wouldn't be written our way. Such a lot to see as there was, tiny streets, grey wooden houses. bits of gardens. washing hanging on bamboo poles instead of {word struck out} lines. flower pots with tiny trees on window sills. Little babies being lugged about on peoples backs. other children like bright