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Travel Letters: Japan, 1934
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of it coming out, and the Mc Kinly even draged anchor and we could see in the distance it was quite exciting for a few moments as she went pretty close to another boat. The Harbor didn't look very strange. Something like any harbor, with large cranes and things in the ship building part and very handsome white stone buildings along the shore, which were new since the earthquake. Spanish looking. However there were several little 'sandpans?' {'sampans'}scurrying across the bay and fishermen going out. We even saw the flag they put on a stick which is tied to the line and when the fish bite it pulls the flag down, and then the fisherman go along side & pull in the fish. At least that is the way the Japanese fish in Honolulu.
We gave the bags and keys to the Imperial Hotel runner and so had no more to think of about bags and the passport & Doctor inspection was very easy once they got on board.
The pier we come alongside seemed very new and we caught our first real glimpse of Japan. There were several Japanese ladies on the dock in costume, one or two men too, and a cunning little boy with very pink cheeks and a soldiers cap and a white pinafore over his dark suit. A cunning little girl with bright green stockings and a red 'broad brimmed?' hat. There were some very thin and delicate looking 'sand pans?' {sampans'} near the pier. The size of row boats but very narrow and painted. It took some time to say goodbye to various people on board and any way there was no special hurry. We took a taxi to the Station, and tore along with the horns blowing and missing bycycles right and left. Driving on the left hand side of the street is always a bit nerve racking until you get used to it. There must be about one hundred bycycles to every car or may be more. At the pier on the end we first saw were heaps of bycyles and only one car. They have all sorts of ways to carry things on the forward
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For "O Edie San" look Please don't think of reading this at page 213 Vol. II all at once, there's too much of it of Japan Day - by - Day. I'm afraid - it also continues in my next
Saturday, March 24, 1934.
Dearest Mother,
Here we are, and I can hardly believe it even yet. and why in the devil you and Pete didn't get me here before now I can't imagine. I wouldn't miss the little I've seen already for anything. I could hardly believe all the things we saw. Japanese ladies with their hair in elaborate arrangement, little boys & girls too. everything fascinating even the most squalid districts which would compare to the train ride from Boston to Salem or Waltham.
I woke at four and was scared to sleep anymore in case we didn't wake up soon enough and by five I couldn't stay in bed much longer and it was growing light. Pete got up too and we were on deck by five thirty. There was the loveliest pinkish tint in the sky, exactly like the pictures one sees of Japan and everything was lovely and soft. The sea a silvery green. It was blowing a perfect gale and felt pretty cold. (Pete is standing by the window and every few seconds I have to jump up to see something go by. he also is talking a steady stream as well) We passed the five artificial islands grandpa speaks about in his book that were built in five months after 'Perry?' was here, at the entrance of the harbor. The outline of the shore was entirely different than anything I'd ever seen, though it was all low lying. Outside the headwater we anchored for quarentine Inspection and as the President Mc 'Kinley?' had arrived first we had to wait for her to finish being inspected. The little boats had quite a rough time
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We are here in the harbor. Japanese sunrise [Sa.pa.s] and all Heaps of love from us {'all' struck out} both Catherine
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What a letter. It is now nearing eleven and we are packed & Pete already in bed. We had cocktails here with Mr Bonner 2nd Intermediate Engineer then Pete went down in the engine room with him as a real guide. then cocktails with him in his quarters, where we looked at his photographs. I feel I know the past of all the officers having looked at four albums so far. war pictures and all. Then dinner and liqueurs in our cabin with Mr
Vienol and 'Berner?', they talking until nearly ten.
So now goodbye for the mean - time. we reach Japan at the crack of dawn and I believe a boat leaves with mail
Our address. To Canadian Pacific. Yokahama. Loads of love to you all & do write a lot for we will be anxious for mail. So very much love to you Mother. Will think of you all the time.
Catherine {insert with different ink: over}
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people were wearing and then went down town and got a bright yellow bathing suit for $ 1.95 and it fit very snugly and as 'Edmee?' said was even more scalloped out than hers. The first day she wore a kimona and a sort of coat but soon just one of them, and she ran about in and out of the water and looked suprisingly well, though her place to sit on is unusually large and didn't look any smaller covered with yellow jersey.
Am enclosing clipping about Phil [La.e's] (Mr Keye's cousin ?) engagement to the girl who sang the songs in costume at Lake Louise. Do you remember?
Isn't it funny having to take fresh bread by Plane to Nantucket, butter & potatoes too. Wouldn't you think some one would be able to make bread enough on the island - I guess its purely an advertising stunt.
They have fresh strawberries on the island but are used mostly in short - cake. I doubt if they are as good as Concord ones.
To tell the truth I think the operas over the radio do seem rather long and get a tiny bit tiresome near the end, but then one has nothing to watch.
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May be Russell did see one after all ! We saw several at the race track in Havana.
Do tell me what the "Millen murders" are. or were. We haven't heard anything about them, or maybe didn't notice in the Transcript. By the way are they stopped coming ? We'd like all the Art news you see in the papers if you can cut it out. Also anything about skiing. You know Katherine Hughes who writes the Herald Art news which I think very good and fair, is married & lives in Concord. She was a great friend of ours in school.
How nice Rick Cabot has a {word struck out} son and Olive a daughter and all is well with all concerned ! We'll see Olive on the way home I hope. I do hope you enjoy the opera and how nice to be near the 'S awyers?' it's rather nice to always associate them with such lovely music.
The Tuesday Club sounded very nice and I wonder what they all thought of the ski pictures. You certainly planned it well. I guess it wasn't as hectic as the ski supper.
I guess I never told you about Mrs 'Rungens?' and her Bathing suit. The first day she went out on the beach to see what
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other across the way was full of Fillipinos. We also saw one of the gambling tables and a little stand of Chinese candy etc. which are leased as concessions on the boat by Chinamen. Some times it is crowded in the lower passage ways with the gambling going on. We also went to see third class. Rather crowded quarters but a nice dining saloon and two lounges, all very clean. In the afternoon we went down into the Engine Rooms. I had no idea they could be so tremendous. It was like a huge power house. everything shiny and bright and good ventilation. The engines are Diesal and we average 21 knots going across so our days 'news?' are usually over 500 miles a day. I don't understand engines very much but it was fun to see -
We lost Monday, going to bed Sunday and getting up on Tuesday - Its hard to figure out where you gain over half an hour a night and then loose a whole day!
As I was finishing the last page of this, 30, Pete came in to drag me out to look at the waves from the bridge on the stern. It actually over hangs the water on either side but was a grand place to watch
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Thursday morning.
It hardly seems possible that we arrive in Japan at daylight tomorrow morning. I only finished Japan -Day - by - Day yesterday noon and counted on today to write letters. As soon as I started writing the waves grew in size and now this morning we are pitching up and down at a great rate. The Staff Captain took us up on the bridge and also under the bridge and Pete got some pictures of the bow going into the waves and the spray flying. It was hard as a gale was blowing and the spray blew back over the boat. Still he may have gotten something. the Staff Captain Goddard took us into his cabin. Pete changed his film & went out again while I was left inside to look through an album of photographs which Capt. Goddard explained at the same time smoking a rather powerful pipe. Pete came back and seemed in no hurry to leave though I kept thinking how nice fresh air would be. Its the first time I've felt one bit squeamish on this boat. Luckily we went out again before it was too late and now having had some soup I feel more like myself. Pearl Moore recomends [m..tines] so I may resort to a few before long.
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command came and ate breakfast with us the first morning. Again he had been in Banff last summer, knew the Brewsters and all. Next we met 'Coltreed?' from Vancouver, a passenger agent, he's a great skier and interested in Skoki. has been skiing in Japan, we had a long talk with him. He knows a lot we do. Then Mr Vienol who is head of all the food on the Empress boats travels back & forth. worked once at Lake Louise. Tonight the Doctor came and sat with us and our conversation was about weather, until he said where do you live? --- {continuous line} not one of the Whites in Banff? and again we were off. He had had charge of some camp in Banff in 1919 for disabled veterans and knew everyone. ended by our having liqueurs in his cabin and meeting Bonner an engineer who's sister in law we know well in Banff and he's spending his next leave there. Its really funny. Its been lots of fun in meeting so many with mutual friends.
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We have soup at eleven and a delicious English Tea at four. I can't think what more one could want. The people are all very nice. mostly quiet and friendly. Yet they leave you alone if you don't want to enter the games etc. There's no doubt about it the Canadian Pacific know how to do things and there's no comparison between this and the Lurline. Here everyone is anxious to do what they can for you and there is real tradition behind it all. On the Lurline the service was pretty poor and you had a feeling that the people doing things for you felt way above you.
The funny part is that we feel right at home. Banff is a pretty small place and yet its almost a password when you are travelling. I think the first to speak to us was a boy who wanted to know if Pete was Cliff's brother. He had spent some time in Banff. Then the Sergeant at Arms Sterling had seen Pete on the "Asia" four years ago, also had spent his leave in Banff last summer. Then the Staff Captain who is next the Captain in