Catharine Robb Whyte – Letters

of it coming out, and the Mc Kinly even draged anchor and we could see in the distance it was quite exciting for a few moments as she went pretty close to another boat. The Harbor didn't look very strange. Something like any harbor, with large cranes and things in the ship building part and very handsome white stone buildings along the shore, which were new since the earthquake. Spanish looking. However there were several little 'sandpans?' {'sampans'}scurrying across the bay and fishermen going out. We even saw the flag they put on a stick which is tied to the line and when the fish bite it pulls the flag down, and then the fisherman go along side & pull in the fish. At least that is the way the Japanese fish in Honolulu.

We gave the bags and keys to the Imperial Hotel runner and so had no more to think of about bags and the passport & Doctor inspection was very easy once they got on board.

The pier we come alongside seemed very new and we caught our first real glimpse of Japan. There were several Japanese ladies on the dock in costume, one or two men too, and a cunning little boy with very pink cheeks and a soldiers cap and a white pinafore over his dark suit. A cunning little girl with bright green stockings and a red 'broad brimmed?' hat. There were some very thin and delicate looking 'sand pans?' {sampans'} near the pier. The size of row boats but very narrow and painted. It took some time to say goodbye to various people on board and any way there was no special hurry. We took a taxi to the Station, and tore along with the horns blowing and missing bycycles right and left. Driving on the left hand side of the street is always a bit nerve racking until you get used to it. There must be about one hundred bycycles to every car or may be more. At the pier on the end we first saw were heaps of bycyles and only one car. They have all sorts of ways to carry things on the forward

For "O Edie San" look Please don't think of reading this at page 213 Vol. II all at once, there's too much of it of Japan Day - by - Day. I'm afraid - it also continues in my next

Saturday, March 24, 1934.

Dearest Mother,

Here we are, and I can hardly believe it even yet. and why in the devil you and Pete didn't get me here before now I can't imagine. I wouldn't miss the little I've seen already for anything. I could hardly believe all the things we saw. Japanese ladies with their hair in elaborate arrangement, little boys & girls too. everything fascinating even the most squalid districts which would compare to the train ride from Boston to Salem or Waltham.

I woke at four and was scared to sleep anymore in case we didn't wake up soon enough and by five I couldn't stay in bed much longer and it was growing light. Pete got up too and we were on deck by five thirty. There was the loveliest pinkish tint in the sky, exactly like the pictures one sees of Japan and everything was lovely and soft. The sea a silvery green. It was blowing a perfect gale and felt pretty cold. (Pete is standing by the window and every few seconds I have to jump up to see something go by. he also is talking a steady stream as well) We passed the five artificial islands grandpa speaks about in his book that were built in five months after 'Perry?' was here, at the entrance of the harbor. The outline of the shore was entirely different than anything I'd ever seen, though it was all low lying. Outside the headwater we anchored for quarentine Inspection and as the President Mc 'Kinley?' had arrived first we had to wait for her to finish being inspected. The little boats had quite a rough time

We are here in the harbor. Japanese sunrise [Sa.pa.s] and all Heaps of love from us {'all' struck out} both Catherine

What a letter. It is now nearing eleven and we are packed & Pete already in bed. We had cocktails here with Mr Bonner 2nd Intermediate Engineer then Pete went down in the engine room with him as a real guide. then cocktails with him in his quarters, where we looked at his photographs. I feel I know the past of all the officers having looked at four albums so far. war pictures and all. Then dinner and liqueurs in our cabin with Mr

Vienol and 'Berner?', they talking until nearly ten.

So now goodbye for the mean - time. we reach Japan at the crack of dawn and I believe a boat leaves with mail

Our address. To Canadian Pacific. Yokahama. Loads of love to you all & do write a lot for we will be anxious for mail. So very much love to you Mother. Will think of you all the time.

Catherine {insert with different ink: over}

people were wearing and then went down town and got a bright yellow bathing suit for $ 1.95 and it fit very snugly and as 'Edmee?' said was even more scalloped out than hers. The first day she wore a kimona and a sort of coat but soon just one of them, and she ran about in and out of the water and looked suprisingly well, though her place to sit on is unusually large and didn't look any smaller covered with yellow jersey.

Am enclosing clipping about Phil [La.e's] (Mr Keye's cousin ?) engagement to the girl who sang the songs in costume at Lake Louise. Do you remember?

Isn't it funny having to take fresh bread by Plane to Nantucket, butter & potatoes too. Wouldn't you think some one would be able to make bread enough on the island - I guess its purely an advertising stunt.

They have fresh strawberries on the island but are used mostly in short - cake. I doubt if they are as good as Concord ones.

To tell the truth I think the operas over the radio do seem rather long and get a tiny bit tiresome near the end, but then one has nothing to watch.

May be Russell did see one after all ! We saw several at the race track in Havana.

Do tell me what the "Millen murders" are. or were. We haven't heard anything about them, or maybe didn't notice in the Transcript. By the way are they stopped coming ? We'd like all the Art news you see in the papers if you can cut it out. Also anything about skiing. You know Katherine Hughes who writes the Herald Art news which I think very good and fair, is married & lives in Concord. She was a great friend of ours in school.

How nice Rick Cabot has a {word struck out} son and Olive a daughter and all is well with all concerned ! We'll see Olive on the way home I hope. I do hope you enjoy the opera and how nice to be near the 'S awyers?' it's rather nice to always associate them with such lovely music.

The Tuesday Club sounded very nice and I wonder what they all thought of the ski pictures. You certainly planned it well. I guess it wasn't as hectic as the ski supper.

I guess I never told you about Mrs 'Rungens?' and her Bathing suit. The first day she went out on the beach to see what

other across the way was full of Fillipinos. We also saw one of the gambling tables and a little stand of Chinese candy etc. which are leased as concessions on the boat by Chinamen. Some times it is crowded in the lower passage ways with the gambling going on. We also went to see third class. Rather crowded quarters but a nice dining saloon and two lounges, all very clean. In the afternoon we went down into the Engine Rooms. I had no idea they could be so tremendous. It was like a huge power house. everything shiny and bright and good ventilation. The engines are Diesal and we average 21 knots going across so our days 'news?' are usually over 500 miles a day. I don't understand engines very much but it was fun to see -

We lost Monday, going to bed Sunday and getting up on Tuesday - Its hard to figure out where you gain over half an hour a night and then loose a whole day!

As I was finishing the last page of this, 30, Pete came in to drag me out to look at the waves from the bridge on the stern. It actually over hangs the water on either side but was a grand place to watch

By this time it was nearing lunch time and so we went {word struck out: 'back'} to the Miyaokas' house. You would like it, it is in a rather quiet neighborhood, has a charming garden all around the house and is very sunny and pleasant. It is an old house and in Japanese style, but they have some foreign furniture, chairs tables desk and book cases full of law books at one end of the house. We left our shoes in the vestibule and put on soft slippers which they have for guests and themselves too. Mrs Miyaoka was there before us and again was in Japanese costume. The best way to describe the house is to try and draw it. As you entered you left you shoes {left column drawing of house print including fence outline, pencil drawing with description 'front door', 'bath', 'book case', Mrs Miyaokas' room'} {right column} then turned left and walked along {right column} a sort of outdoor verandah. The {right column} windows or sliding screens were {right column} mostly openend and had glass {right column} panes. This verandah was about {right column} eight feet wide and extended {right column} around the two sides of the house {right column} then inside this making the room {right column} partitions were sliding screens {right column} with paper panes. These were also {right column} slid back so the whole side of the house seemed open into the garden. The shrubbery inside the fence shutting out the rest of the city. The cases of books and all were crowded into one end of the house a beautiful gold screen hiding them from view. Mr Miyaoka has recently moved his work to the house instead of having an office besides and is not taking any new clients but only doing work for retaining business. He feels he is getting older and so gradually will do less practising. The large room has a dining room table & chairs and rugs over the straw matting. There was a Kakimona hanging in the shrine place, a budda and a vase with bridle wreath and tiger {word struck out: 'lille'} lily. It ws all very

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO"

Imperial Hotel Tokyo

nice and comfortable. On the porch was a desk Mr Miyaoka used, a small table really. I was asked if I should like to wash up and was shown into the little room marked {illegible} off the porch away from the house. I was a bit disconcerted not knowing the proper procedure for it was the real Japanese style. A sort of well with stone sides was on the right of the door. a wooden railing around it and a plank across one end with a bamboo bucket and dipper - towels on a rack as well. So I carefully washed my hands by pouring ice cold water on them, and then made my appearance. only to find the hot water was waiting for me in the bathroom at the other end of the house. The wash stand was very low and lined with a silvery metal, set in this was a shallow metal basin filled with warm water, so I had a real wash after all. The water is heated in a tiny tub with a cover. charcoal being put into a place at the back. and then the water is dipped out. They also have a real Japanese tub and Mrs Miyaoka removed the boards from the top so I could look inside. there is a stove for charcoal to heat the bath water. Its really a very pleasant system.

It was then lunch time and we sat down at the table. Each of us was brought a square wooden tray about a foot square. On which was a wine glass, soon filled with some red wine. The {word struck out: 'chap?'} wooden chapsticks on a little green china rest an inch long in the shape of some vegetable. In one little cup was a delicious thing. large white beans with a rather sweet taste and cold. Also cold was some spinach in another cup with very fine grated dried fish on top. Both of these things were delicious. Then a bowl of soup was brought in

in covered laquer bowls. A delicious clear soup with little balls of meat, chicken I think and two mushrooms as well. It was very hot and I still eating this when a bowl for each of vegetables, also covered, was brought in. There was a piece of Taro, boiled or steamed, which is much like Hawaiian Taro which they make poi out of - Also several spears of Japanese asparagus and another similar vegetable. Then a plate each of the most delicious broiled eel and a cup of rice to go with it. I was pretty nearly full by this time, together with wine and warm saki. but still there was a sort of cold slaw dish with delicious sauce, and then tea followed by a regular dumpling. sort of sticking ginger - bread stuff with red beans in the center. It was quite a meal but I managed to eat everything but all my salad.

Mr Miyaoka had to pay his respects at a funeral near-by (they live right next the cemetary.) and while he was gone. out away, top hat and all, Mrs Miyaoka showed us some of her work and that of her teachers and then got out her paper and paints {word struck out} ink and brushes, and showed us how it was done and Pete had a chance to try his hand at it. really doing remarkably well. We are going to take lessons the first of April from her teacher in the evening, and they have told us we may use a room in their daughter in laws house which is across the lane. Pete is very anxious to learn how to paint as the Japanese do, and we are both going to try, it is such a wonderful opportunity. We had tea at four, some little {word struck out: 'size'} rice things and too sweet cake and then it was time for us to go. Mr Miyaoka having a car to send us back in. It was such a pleasant day. I do wish you had come with us. there is so much you would enjoy.