Catharine Robb Whyte – Letters

single Chinese hat with a red ball on top. A man in plumes sitting opposite him. Then the next Imperial carriage with the minister, followed by five other open carriages, only black and not as elaborate with various dignitaries, top hats and all. It was a remarkable thing to see and it is a very rare occasion when there is a reason for the Imperial carriages to be used.

We had just gotten back to the room when a caller arrived - a Mr Nagasawa who was sent by Dr Anesaki, to take us to the Imperial University then if we cared or any time, We decided to go right then, and so got ready. By the time we were out on the street all the traffic was being stopped for it was time for the Premier and party to return from the Palace. So we waited. It was interesting to see the crowd of people on the side walk. All very orderly. they weren't allowed to cross the side streets or more from where they were. All traffic was halted. Then we could see them coming and soon the men on horse back trotted by, a 'Banza ?' for the Premier from the people. More horses after the two Imperial coaches. then the other carriages. I think a few more horses and then a little brown car full of officers, and a policeman on a bycycle which struck me as rather incongruous.

Mr Nagasawa took us up to the Library of the University. It was the {last letter struck out} first time we had driven along the inner moat, where he told us that all streets leading there are irregular and were planned that way, so in case of invasion it would be harder to reach the Palace. there being no direct road leading to it. Then up through the streets you probably have walked on. and some stores and shops you may have been in. for lots of places can't have changed. Then through the Red gate, a {letter stuck out} very old red Laquer gate way. a large gate in the center and {illegible: 'a'} smaller one on either side. It was there when you were - We went to the waiting room next Dr Anesaki's office. I never realized that {word struck out: 'heas'} he was the librarian of the library, but is retiring this spring as he is now sixty (or maybe seventy, no sixty)

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Imperial Hotel Tokyo

It took some time to find him, but at last he was located at the Professors Club, and asked us if we would come over if I didn't mind being the only lady among a lot of men. It is quite a small club, very simple wooden building with dining room and sitting room. Very plain and full of Professors. Dr Anesaki seemed very glad to see us and was very jolly and lots of fun. quite different from at Banff, where they were all rather serious. He introduced us to several men who's fathers knew Grandpa or they knew him. Then we were invited to have lunch and sat at a long table. there being three such tables seating about thirty. Dr Yatsu who met Grandpa first in 1906, but since he died, he has been to Salem to visit his grave, and also went to the Peabody Museum three times. He was very nice and also lots of fun, and had spent two weeks in the Hawaiian Islands with a Mr Ishi{line after}, sounded like Ishikawa but wasn't, who later talked to me. A Mr {word illegible} was younger but his father was a {word struck out: 'pupil'}student of Grandpas'. Half way through lunch I spied Dr Takaki who came to lunch in Concord, and he was much surprised to see us and as nice as ever. Thinks if he ever goes to Cambridge he would like to live in Concord, it was so lovely and restful. I thought that Sunday as noisy and hectic as any could be. but he evidently thoroughly enjoyed it.

The lunch was very delicious. a sort of fried crab or lobster and hot curried something that was awfully good. It was really great fun. After lunch Dr Anesaki and Dr Takaki took us for a walk around the part where they thought you might have lived. Most of the buildings of the University are brand new. but the garden in the hollow is still

there, about half way between the Red Gate to where the Professors lived. They thought it was there then. Also two large trees 200 years old, looked like Maples are near where the Professors Houses were. Dr Anesaki showed us the old wooden building he had lived in when he was in college 15 years after Grandpa was there (must be sixty not seventy) We also saw the large hall with unusually wonderful [e...rastics]. Then went back to the library.

The library is very large and a useful sort of building, built with extra pillars very thick and every few feet inside, so it seems. By useful I mean that most of the space inside is utilized. There is one very large room. with long windows, used on special occasions with a long long table in the center and chairs. Along one side up high are Photographic Portraits of the {word struck out: 'various'} Presidents of the University and under them is a beautiful case divided into four sections, in memory of the four men who gave their libraries to the university. There is a large photograph of each man. The one of Grandpa is excellent. the one looking at the tea jar. enlarged to about 16 by 18 inches. It is a beautiful enlargement and couldn't be a better portrait. I don't usually like large photographs of people, but this doesn't seem so large. I imagine because of the room being so big. Also in the same case was a copy of the letter from John D. Rockefeller for giving the money necessary to rebuild the library. I never realized before he had done that. I think it was a million dollars. Then there were some ashes and burnt glass and all that remained of the previous library. It was all very nicely done and if possible we will try to take a picture of it for you. Dr Anesaki was awfully busy trying to move and I felt badly to think we had taken as much of his time, but he seemed glad to do it. He sent us with a very nice young man who showed us some of the books in the stacks that had belonged

club but really a place anyone can go. They called for us here. Before I forget it. Mr Miyaoka had a very amusing time telephoning Dr Sasaki. the last remaining student of Grandpas. He couldn't make him understand who I was. for he only knew you were a young girl and didn't see how in the world you were old enough to have a daughter. far less a married daughter. We are to call on him later.

Pete enjoyed the Rotary, and I loved the Sukiaki. They have a large room in Japanese style. mats, kakimona and all. with little low tables with an electric {word struck out: illegible} plate in the center for the girl to cook on. The tables are seperated by square screens and its really very nice. I was quite proud of myself as I sat nearly all the time the right way. The curtains on the windows facing the Imperial Palace were all down until a certain time, as the Empress was to go out, and no one must look down on the Palace at such a time - even if you couldn't see her.

The beef sukiyaki was wonderful. First we were served a sort of tea with some seaweed flavor. May be it was all seaweed, very refreshing. Then in the little pan the girl put fat, then soya sauce. some meat in very thin slices (I hate to think how many I ate) then sugar, vegetables. bamboo and a sort of water cress. To add more cooking stuff they added thin soup. The flavor is perfectly delicious, and you usually take a raw egg, beat it up well in a cup and dip every thing into it before putting it into your mouth. It will never burn then. You ought to provide 'But?' with more raw eggs! We had rice too, and then a sort of pickled vegetable to finish off with and a sweet I couldn't eat. I forgot. to start with they bring one a steaming face cloth in a little basket to wipe your hands and afterwards another. We also ate a Tangerine orange. I guess I'm sleepy its after eleven now.

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Imperial Hotel Tokyo [right column] Friday, late afternoon. [right column] March 30, 1934,

To continue, after lunch with Mrs Miyaoka we 'greet?' Pete & Mr Miyaoka coming out of the Rotary, and then together drove to [..gno] Park, which I imagine has changed very little except for a few new buildings. We stopped and saw the two trees planted by you. and Mrs Grant over fifty years ago. The height of the trees gave us some idea of how long ago it was you were in Japan. We saw the monument near by reading why and when they were planted, then we called on a friend at the Art Gallery, who wasn't there, so we proceeded to the Artist, Mr 'Hotla's?' house.

We had told Mrs Miyaoka that we would like to study Japanese painting but hadn't expected to start quite so soon. However there was no real reason why we shouldn't begin. The house is Japanese and as we stayed at the door, Mr 'Hotla?' looked out from upstairs. We went in leaving our shoes in the little vestibule and went upstairs, where their was a fairly large room, the center screens having been removed. Three sides of which were sliding paper screens, {word struck out" 'and'} being outside partitions and the other long side {word struck out: 'there'} was composed of the recessed place with its kakimona and screened closets. The floor having mats. Four low chairs and a low table were in the front part of the room and we sat there to talk. Mrs 'Hotla?' came up with some tea, 'Foreign?' style, and there was much very low bowing. She is very sweet and small. Mr Miyaoka had to leave being a very busy man, but we three stayed deciding

to begin our first lesson that afternoon.

A large thick flannel sort of cloth is spread on the floor on which the rolls of paper are laid. Old Sword guards being used as paper weights to hold the paper in position as you paint. Each person sits in Japanese fashion on a flat cushion at the edge of the flannel or felt maybe it is. There is a large bowl divided into three parts, or [ti..], holding water. An ink stone, a folded piece of cloth to dry the brush on and a brush for everyone. We all sat around the felt on which was every thing we could possibly need. Beside us were charcoal burners to warm our hands on, and we were all set to paint. A young boy - a student of Mr Hotlas helps in any way he can, grinding the ink, rather rubbing it on the stone, bringing tea and running to a store for more paper, brushes, or whatever we need. Mr Hotla then painted for each of us bamboo. Showing us the way to hold the brush and all. He does everything so easily and cleverly, it is worth taking lessons just to watch him paint. We tried all afternoon to paint bamboo and its really surprising how difficult it is. Every little while tea would be brought. Japanese tea after the first 'Foreign?' cup. and then on a plate with a tiny fork was what appeared to be a bright pink Easter egg. but which really was that sweet made out of beans ground into a sickish paste. The color was the last touch, but I managed to eat mine and be polite. I often thank you for my early training! and try every thing once. There is nothing yet that I have been unable to swallow. We painted until after five and then decided to return in the morning. Mr Hotla sent out for two books for us and then drew three lovely things in each one. He will complete the books before we have finished.

The other morning as we were at breakfast, a girl and her husband came into the dining room and sat only a few tables away. I was sure it {word struck out: illegible} was Edith Eddy who graduated from school at Wheelers a year before I did. When she saw

when repeating what one says, to another {inserted above: "speak"} in the respective language. showing that she can translate in her mind without difficulty. Did you ever, and only four and quite normal. I imagine a child learns easily by sound and isn't bothered by having to read and write.

This is all leading up to the fact that we had dinner with them Wednesday evening, and a very pleasant time. The husband is awfully nice and Edith is perfectly lovely looking.

I never have told you what a cosmopolitan Hotel this is. There are always several very nice Japanese families and really more Japanese here than all the rest put together. The rest of the guests are from every country, and never before have I heard so many languages in one place. English - American, French, German (two men are an officer with swastikas on their arms) Swedish. Chinese etc. The most interesting part is that they all seem to be travellers and until you hear the accents it would be hard to tell their nationality. Another interesting thing is that I have seen no rouge or lip stick, except on some Austrian and Russian dancers, and then so little as to be hardly noticeable among Americans. In Honolulu they used a heap of "paint" and very badly. I think because there are so many people their from California. but here all the people travelling seem to be very simple in their ways. sensibly dressed and no attempt to look stylish I guess. No one dresses for dinner except for special parties. Its really an awfully nice hotel, for people seem to be so busy seeing the country or going about their business that they have no time to fuss over themselves.

Thursday was yesterday, and we woke to see it snowing outside. If my nose hadn't felt so cold I never would have believed it. We were to go to Mr Hottas' and knowing the only heat was from the [b.a..ers] we bundled up, took extra thick socks to wear on our stockinged feet. Pete pulled out his one suit of long underwear and I my woolen panties ! The snow melted as it hit the ground and I expected it to turn to rain. However it came down thicker and thicker

17 the old lady we met said "Japan Day by Day" was one of the books she had been told to read while in Japan. but couldn't get it in english at some library in a club:

road below the University grounds was exactly like a print. the temple roofs rather indistinct across the lotus pond or marsh and in the foreground weeping willow trees, [se.lcrietted] against the gray and a few figures going by.

The sights were too remarkable. Pots of people barefooted and clogs on. In fact the Keyoto boy was barefoot all day. Imagine its like getting used to no gloves.. but it did seem funny in the [sucru]?. All the cars and trucks in fact any wheeled vehicle is compelled by law to have brushes or pieces of rubber being [dcru] outside the hubcaps to keep the water from splashing. Its a wonderful idea. The brush is about a foot by two feet four and all cars have the necssary brackets to attach theirs to in bad weather. But the bycycles were the best. several had three large round open worked wicker baskets filled with roosters and hens. looking very cold and and squashed and the new [hav..p] a said tuile? peddlers in four feet of slush. You see everything behing hauled on the back of bycycles. tires for cars. potted plants, today a [.at] tree that looked awfully high, large plates of glass. all sorts of things. Some bycycles tow a two wheeled contrevauce?. making the bycycle & trailor into a sort of glorified trycycle. Two boys to day, each had a large desk on their on their trailor and the several chair tied on top. As Pete says they toy as much behind as any delivery truck would think of carrying.

When we got back we put on old shoes and went for a very slushy walk but it was worth it. We had found a noe here from the Uriuatsie's? that as they lived in the country it owuld be too hard for us to go out there that evening. Instead Pete developed the two rolls of film and he got the mau? being seasick by the rail.

Imperial Hotel Tokyo Easter Sunday April 1, 1934

Dearest Mother I know there are lots of things I've forgotten to tell you and I can't even remember to take a slip of paper to write them down on. I never told you about the (funny card?) in the show we show we saw. The one with the two horses. In the first scene of the play as the curtain rose one saw a woodland scene and three monkeys seasawing away. We judged they were monkeys by their pink bottoms, which was about all we had time to see. They must have been tiny children. Then there was a dear poking it's head out of the underbrush which was very funny. A large head loosely attached to a queer shaped body. Then a white horse appeared and we realized it was not a farce but serious drama. Peter on in the Mongolean desert some one rode in on a camel. It was the funniest looking camel I've ever seen, and thought it was two men inside. Though the (chewing?) of the mouth was very realistic. The legs were awfully short and it had a clumsey body and not much of a (hump?). Pete said of course it was real but even then I wasn't sure.

Yesterday was a very busy day for us. We went up to Mr Botta's early. We go in a taxi to the Art School in (Aeno?) Park and from there direct the taxi driver through raucous tiny streets which we (??) the first day and eventually arrived at Mr Botta's door. After much (??) on the part of the taxi driver. They have numerous 50 (seu?) taxis and that means you can go any where in the city for 15 cents. It's a wonderful arrangement though some times the drivers are a bit nerve racking. No one seemed to be there when we arrived, but we went upstairs and after (warming ?) air felt we decided we might as well start. Boon two

2 students of Mr Botta's arrived and after much searching in the Japanese English dictionary found the word "visitor" so we gathered Mr Botta had an unexpected visitor . Then they looked some more and found "regret". However we could find find nothing to say it was "allright" though we took turns searching. We even found the word "coward" but nothing that helped us. The Japanese was alphabetical I guess, but not the English However if you smile and bow enough it is all right. Mrs Miyaoka came before lunch and we didn't leave until 2:30. The lunch was very nice. Hot soup with mushrooms and fish and fried eel on rice. Then our kind of tea followed immediately by Japanese tea. Then oranges, which they eat so neatly. They break the skin off in one cup shaped piece and then put the inside skin into the outside skin. Sometimes seeking the juicey part out of its skin. Other times sort of spitting the pits onto a piece of outside skin. All very neatly.

Did I tell you the other day Mr Miyaoka looked out the window soon after we had arrived at Mr Botta's and on bringing his head back in he said was just seeing if anyone was watching the shoes as now in the cities there are a good many shoe theives. The same day Pete was down stairs and just checked up on the shoe situation and there was no sign of either pair. He came up and tried to ask Mrs Botta after a while understood what he meant and went down with him, looked into the cupboard, no shoes. Pete was sure then that they were stolen, but luckily after more searching they were found carefully hidden away. Still it would be a bit akward arriving at the hotel in ones stocking feet in a snowstorm

Yesterday afternoon (Arinatsu?) came for us to take us out to his house in the country. Ole feist road by Shiba Park in a taxi, which was lovely then through crowded streets to the station, We saw the most remarkable fire engine. It was the size of a motor cycle and side car the tricycle (theory?) one wheel in front. Two behind a regular