Catharine Robb Whyte – Letters

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO"

Imperial Hotel Tokyo

We were back here about five - thirty and wondered what to do in the evening and found that the show across the street was Japanese lasting 4 hours starting at six. At first we didn't know what to do. but in the end got the man at the office to write down that we wanted 2 seats etc and across the street we went about seven. It is a very modern theater, more so than any but Radio city I guess. Has a stage twice as wide as the Metropolitan, perfectly tremendous, and goodness knows how many in the audience. We managed to get 'good?' seats corresponding to the last row in the opera house in Boston on the floor, and we saw only four other white people. I don't know which was more interesting the play or the audience. The first part of the show was really a modern Japanese musical comedy with music and dancing. We were in time to see the hero fight off eight man with a sword, the whole thing being so well planned and rapid that it appeared to be a fight but no one was hit. You could see each one fling at the other in turn and the other act as if he'd been hit though the weapen came only within a foot of him. It was very funny. Then the finale exactly like our musical comedy kind. After this there was an intermission and the next was a long play. We stayed until the end and the National Anthem was sung, inspite of sitting directly under the cold air ventilator. The scenery was much like Opera in the older days though some scenes were quite lovely. The Japanese & Chinese costumes were lovely but the European ones rather funny. We understood two words during the whole evening "Arigato" and "Sayonara" but as Pete said it

was one time he didn't mind when children yelled during the play. It seems the custom for people to bring the children on back in arms or on foot, and after three hours they either started to cry or went to sleep. I guess only one in a hundred actually cried but that was enough - One little boy went out during an intermission and came in the dark, got down the wrong aisle and couldn't find his parents so stood at the top of said aisle and cried as if his heart would burst. One old man was very kind but nothing would stop this little boy - After a bit (it rather upset the audience nearby) the father appeared out of the middle of the audience and the boy was carried off. The same thing happened later to a little girl. The girl 'usher?' Taking her outside finaly. It was all lots of fun. Plenty of lovely costumes and elaborate hair dressing, and even lots of men in costume - It was 10.30 when we got back here and only cold supper served at that hour in the Grill room. We hadn't had any supper having eaten so much lunch. We ordered a sandwich each. Pete deviled egg, I chicken. It took some time and then in came a plate each piled high with Sandwiches - eight each! I never saw such a lot. four full sized work mens sandwiches cut in half.

This morning we were going to the bank fairly early but on going down the hall saw in the opposite hall much gold braid, Epaulets and all on blue uniform. We decided it must be the First Minister to Japan from Manchukuo {last letter struck out}, who according to the paper was to arrive this morning. Down in the lobby there was quite a bit going on, ten or more photographers with cameras and flash light bulbs. Men in cutaways and top hats. Officers with swords and medals. Only three of these. Mr Sheng Hsiao - Hsu, Premier of the Manchukuo government is the right 'title?' according to the paper. We sat down a minute to see what would happen. One man came along with a bright blue uniform. gold braid and all and a helmet with a brilliant orange

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO"

Imperial Hotel Tokyo

[sp....tly] plume hanging down on all sides. Sort of a waterfall affect. There was one Officer with 10 medals spread in one large row across his chest and a sword too. There were only two or three soldiers, all with brown uniforms, officers caps with a wide brilliant band around the stiff part above the visor - Most of the men seemed to very squeaky boots and for some time we sat at the entrance to the hallway leading to his apartments and watched the people who went in to pay their respects and all. Someone told us that the Premier would be coming out at eleven so we decided to wait and watch - One very imposing politician (Im sure) came out. the tall hat frock coat and all, even to a light blue and silver order on {word struck out: 'the'} his breast. He was so impressive he had to walk slowly. At one time all the camera men were shown up onto the balcony and flashes of light indicated that the Premiers picture was being taken. Just before eleven a man in long dress of dark blue or black and a short coat & Jacket, beautifully made & fitted. black silk high shoes and a sort of square black hat with a little red pom - pom on top came down, then went back. and in a few minutes there was a shuffle of feet, a great many frock coats and in the midst another man, older than the first, and really very fine looking & kindly and in the same Manchukuo costume. More frock coats or cut aways following. A few brown uniforms swords and speers. and they were by, but it was rather fun to see.

We then took a 50 sen taxi. (15 cents really) to the bank several miles through [...uheeding] traffic - where we

had some money changed. They still use those bead things to figure with, for they are very rapid. and count your money 'it?' little basket plates. They seemed very busy in the bank which was very modern as to building but crowded with paper littered [s..ll] top desks.

We then went to the department store and the first person we saw as Mr Miyaoka's friend who had led us the other day. We asked for Leica equipment and he tore off, both of us after him. He got a very nice young man to help us who spoke a good deal of English, and he helped us get the developer, for the films we have been looking for. Also a wonderful tripod. Then to a place for a watch strap which was in the comb department & hair ornaments. and then took me to the silk stockings, size ten is so large it must be ordered {word struck out: illegible} specially. Then to the restaurant where it was 'fanned?' two different ones. We decided to eat else where. I heard Pete ask for the Mens washroom and previous to that he had told us he would show us where the Leica store was. So after an attempt at the restaurant Pete again mentioned the washroom. Off we started through various departments, down an {letter struck out:'d'} elevator out the front door. I wondered at their not having a mens room in the store, but as we crossed the street decided it was a public place some where, Still we went on. So I decided it was in a hotel we were rapidly approaching, but soon we were past that. I was more and more bewildered until at last I saw the Leica store in the distance. He had forgotten the washroom. We found the Leica store a wonderful place. The boy left us by then returning to his store. though he had taken us several blocks. He couldn't have been nicer. The man in the Leica store was German, could speak English very well Japanese too and we found all sorts of things we have been wanting and which are far cheaper here. One

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Imperial Hotel Tokyo

was a printer, the size of a Leica Camera, with which you can print positive film or make contact prints. the kind we send you. In a short time it should really pay for itself. Then the man put us in a taxi and told the man where to take us to the Olympic Restaurant where they speak English. I had some strawberries & cream which would rival Concord berries in June. Then we walked back gazing at the shops which take all ones strength of character to keep out of.

After getting back here I've written this letter since the eleventh page about and now its supper time. Pete went in search of a bowl for developing and though we passed a yard full of crokkery in a taxi he couldn't find it on foot. Its time to go now, I wonder will this letter go in an envelope. I hope you don't get worn out reading such a scribble for I shan't attempt to reread it.

I forgot to tell you about the babies. They look as if they had been stuffed inside a bed pillow with only their head hands and sometimes feet left out, they have so many clothes on, often bright red kimonas on top. {dashed line underneath this paragraph}

It is now eleven-thirty and we have only just come in from our walk. You never knew anything so fascinating in your life. Well maybe when you were here it was pretty nice but perhaps you didn't stroll around the back streets, right out from the hotel you can start and walk all evening and still be in tiny streets, no sidewalks and even alleys between the houses which aren't more than four feet wide. The houses are mostly Japanese and you can often catch glimpses inside. The clogs left inside the front door and then mats a step above that level at which you enter. There are all sorts of doorways using bent wood.

and irregular bamboo. Lantern in many places. and little trees in a yard no longer than a foot square and yet somehow growing to the second story. The shops are always open and many of them have the wares in the front part and then the family making things on the straw matting of the raised part, and in behind where they live.

{right column} Tuesday - Haven't had a chance to write more and now Dr Anesaki has sent a gentleman to take us to the library to see him.

Loads of love to all & our address is Canadian Pacific in Yokohama.

More love

Catherine.

{words struck out: 'We saw'}

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Imperial Hotel Tokyo

{right column} Thursday, March 29, 1934,

Dearest Mother,

Here I am days behind in writing you, and I thought maybe I never would have a chance to catch up for we were supposed to go out to supper tonight with 'Urimatsei?' who was in Banff last summer, but on account of the 'snow storm' {underlined} (please note this is underlined) he left a note asking us to postpone it until some time next week as it is quite a walk in the country from the station. It has been snowing since early this morning, though at first it didn't stay on the ground, but there is a good three inches now, about six o'clock and every thing is so pretty. But the only way to tell you every thing is to start at the beginning - at least where I left off in a hurry the other day.

The streets at night are probably as fascinating a thing as you would ever want to see. It felt more like walking through attractive scenery in opera than anything else I can think of, for the houses and buildings and stores all seemed on a scale only a little larger than play house and doll size but much smaller than most city streets, where narrow roads give one the feeling of great height. These streets we wandered about were off the main thorough fares and some had room for just two cars to squeeze by, there being no side walks, others were narrower and some of the alley ways were so very narrow that one had to turn sideways almost to get through. they reminded me of the [.l.ses] in Edingburgh. Monday was evidently the first real spring night being quite balmy and everyone seemed to be out, just strolling up and down. Everyone seemed to be Japanese but us and the larger percentage were in costume. The lights were perfect. The soft light through paper screens and

lamps and then the more brilliant lights in some of the stores. A great many places had a large red and white lantern outside, nearly a yard long, and we thought maybe it was the sign of a bar or eating place. As we walked along one quiet street, a man in long kimona (or skirts) stepped out of one of these places, {pencil drawing of described string instrument on right column} plucking a stringed instrument something like this. As he walked down the street he plucked on air, and am older woman, probably a Geisha (for some are older) joined him from across the street, and sang the song very low. They walked fairly fast and popped into another place further down the street. It was fun though for it added greatly to the whole scene. Some streets were quite dark and very quiet, though the city was all around. The houses were so artistic {letters struck out} in every way. Little door ways with some piece of natural wood put in to the mantle or frame. A levey stone perhaps for a step, and though there was barely a foot of room between the bamboo fence on the edge of the street, (there were rarely sidewalks) and the house itself, yet one or two trees or shrubs were always growing, some as high as the roof. Usually a lighted lantern by the door and often the soft light coming through the paper screens. often with a grotesque shadow thrown onto the windows by people moving about inside. Practically every house is of wood, various shades of gray and some new wood of a fence or addition. Often a few shoes outside or perhaps the screens were opened and one could look into a sort of vestibule. A {word struck out: 'few'} number of stores were on each street, just wherever there happened to be one. and nearly all so fascinating I hardly dared look in the windows. Some were full of shoes, rows and rows of them all colors. materials and designs. Other stores had a few ties for men. or perhaps brocaded bags. Then there was the store where they were busy making paper lanterns. A {letters struck out} matted floor a foot above the street level, but dilly enough to have the sliding windows closed to the street. We looked in and watched two young boys painting {letters struck out} with

The man in the gray cloak was still there and we wondered if he were there to attract customers. There were various things we wanted to buy: most improbable things and much to our surprise we found them in these booths. Pete needed some little leather bags to put his camera lenses in and we found a man who evidently made bags of all {letter struck out: 'f'} sizes. What for I can't think. They were long and narrow, a string at the top with a bead on it. you hold the string, push the bead towards the top of the bag, and the bead keeps it closed. We got three bags of soft leather for 15 cents - then we needed a foot of rubber hose, for the developing tank, and to our surprise we came to a booth where a lady had among other things reels of rubber hose as one might sell ribbon. There were long underwear booths, toys, bric a brac, though how people got all the stuff back and forth I couldn't imagine. Two men with {letter struck out} toy pipes they were blowing to make a little {word struck out} ball rise in the air, both men looking so serious and very cross eyed as they watched the ball. Every kind of thing was for sail and even {word struck out} books as they have them in Paris. It was all such fun and its so interesting to see how they display things. The strawberries so carefully laid out on green stuff in boxes. The fresh wrapped in cellophane etc. Everything is interesting. Its fun to be able to go anywhere in the city and feel perfectly safe. Not many large cities you can do that. One thing that I was crazy about was a little stand, like a peanut stand at home that a man pushes round, and then stays on some particular corner for business. There was one of these things attached to a bicycle I think and where you could buy rice and a little food, just something to eat, but the part that intrigued me. was that the thing was made like a building in bright new wood. Japanese style - little sliding windows balconys and all, beautifully done, like a big doll house.

I thought - I was going to get a lot written tonight while Pete was developing films, but either I have to go in and hold some thing or else I'm left in total darkness for ten minutes. However most of the rest he has to do can be done with one light on.

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO"

Imperial Hotel Tokyo

Tuesday morning we went downstairs for something and there was an air of great excitement almost more people than the day before and we knew by the paper that the two men from Manchukuo were to deliver their message to the Emperor of Japan from the new Emperor Pu Yi - More pictures were being taken in the garden, and as everyone else had cameras someone told Pete he could use his. After the garden scene was snapped, the photographers, about thirty hurried out to the drive - way, so as to be less conspicuous we went up onto a balcony over the front entrance. Out on the main street was a row of men on horseback, part of the Imperial guard I think. All dressed in red and looking very grand on horse back. 'Hebaya?' Park across the road was lined with people. Then two carriages drove in, all covered with emerald green {word struck out: 'silk'} brocaded silk. They looked like caskets but a bit too gay - They drew up where we could see nicely. The footman and driver jumped down off each and began preparing the carriages to take the Premier and minister to the Palace. The green covering was carefully rolled off and folded up. {word struck out: 'then'} and underneath were - beautiful closed carriages - the windows were taken out and slipped into the door some how, the back folded into place, and two of the most gorgeous carriages appeared upholstered in pale grayish brocade, maybe it was gold and silver. The 'footmen?' had white plumes across the top of their hats, and it was a sight, a beautiful spring day too. We were at this crucial moment hustled off the balcony, because no one is allowed in Japan to look down from above on anyone higher than themselves. Luckily a very nice Japanese fellow, realised our plight and showed us a way downstairs through corridors and up outside, where we could see the carriages drive by. We were just in time The Premier in the first carriage, in his long dark dress and