Catharine Robb Whyte – Letters

had some money changed. They still use those bead things to figure with, for they are very rapid. and count your money 'it?' little basket plates. They seemed very busy in the bank which was very modern as to building but crowded with paper littered [s..ll] top desks.

We then went to the department store and the first person we saw as Mr Miyaoka's friend who had led us the other day. We asked for Leica equipment and he tore off, both of us after him. He got a very nice young man to help us who spoke a good deal of English, and he helped us get the developer, for the films we have been looking for. Also a wonderful tripod. Then to a place for a watch strap which was in the comb department & hair ornaments. and then took me to the silk stockings, size ten is so large it must be ordered {word struck out: illegible} specially. Then to the restaurant where it was 'fanned?' two different ones. We decided to eat else where. I heard Pete ask for the Mens washroom and previous to that he had told us he would show us where the Leica store was. So after an attempt at the restaurant Pete again mentioned the washroom. Off we started through various departments, down an {letter struck out:'d'} elevator out the front door. I wondered at their not having a mens room in the store, but as we crossed the street decided it was a public place some where, Still we went on. So I decided it was in a hotel we were rapidly approaching, but soon we were past that. I was more and more bewildered until at last I saw the Leica store in the distance. He had forgotten the washroom. We found the Leica store a wonderful place. The boy left us by then returning to his store. though he had taken us several blocks. He couldn't have been nicer. The man in the Leica store was German, could speak English very well Japanese too and we found all sorts of things we have been wanting and which are far cheaper here. One

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO"

Imperial Hotel Tokyo

was a printer, the size of a Leica Camera, with which you can print positive film or make contact prints. the kind we send you. In a short time it should really pay for itself. Then the man put us in a taxi and told the man where to take us to the Olympic Restaurant where they speak English. I had some strawberries & cream which would rival Concord berries in June. Then we walked back gazing at the shops which take all ones strength of character to keep out of.

After getting back here I've written this letter since the eleventh page about and now its supper time. Pete went in search of a bowl for developing and though we passed a yard full of crokkery in a taxi he couldn't find it on foot. Its time to go now, I wonder will this letter go in an envelope. I hope you don't get worn out reading such a scribble for I shan't attempt to reread it.

I forgot to tell you about the babies. They look as if they had been stuffed inside a bed pillow with only their head hands and sometimes feet left out, they have so many clothes on, often bright red kimonas on top. {dashed line underneath this paragraph}

It is now eleven-thirty and we have only just come in from our walk. You never knew anything so fascinating in your life. Well maybe when you were here it was pretty nice but perhaps you didn't stroll around the back streets, right out from the hotel you can start and walk all evening and still be in tiny streets, no sidewalks and even alleys between the houses which aren't more than four feet wide. The houses are mostly Japanese and you can often catch glimpses inside. The clogs left inside the front door and then mats a step above that level at which you enter. There are all sorts of doorways using bent wood.

and irregular bamboo. Lantern in many places. and little trees in a yard no longer than a foot square and yet somehow growing to the second story. The shops are always open and many of them have the wares in the front part and then the family making things on the straw matting of the raised part, and in behind where they live.

{right column} Tuesday - Haven't had a chance to write more and now Dr Anesaki has sent a gentleman to take us to the library to see him.

Loads of love to all & our address is Canadian Pacific in Yokohama.

More love

Catherine.

{words struck out: 'We saw'}

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO"

Imperial Hotel Tokyo

{right column} Thursday, March 29, 1934,

Dearest Mother,

Here I am days behind in writing you, and I thought maybe I never would have a chance to catch up for we were supposed to go out to supper tonight with 'Urimatsei?' who was in Banff last summer, but on account of the 'snow storm' {underlined} (please note this is underlined) he left a note asking us to postpone it until some time next week as it is quite a walk in the country from the station. It has been snowing since early this morning, though at first it didn't stay on the ground, but there is a good three inches now, about six o'clock and every thing is so pretty. But the only way to tell you every thing is to start at the beginning - at least where I left off in a hurry the other day.

The streets at night are probably as fascinating a thing as you would ever want to see. It felt more like walking through attractive scenery in opera than anything else I can think of, for the houses and buildings and stores all seemed on a scale only a little larger than play house and doll size but much smaller than most city streets, where narrow roads give one the feeling of great height. These streets we wandered about were off the main thorough fares and some had room for just two cars to squeeze by, there being no side walks, others were narrower and some of the alley ways were so very narrow that one had to turn sideways almost to get through. they reminded me of the [.l.ses] in Edingburgh. Monday was evidently the first real spring night being quite balmy and everyone seemed to be out, just strolling up and down. Everyone seemed to be Japanese but us and the larger percentage were in costume. The lights were perfect. The soft light through paper screens and

lamps and then the more brilliant lights in some of the stores. A great many places had a large red and white lantern outside, nearly a yard long, and we thought maybe it was the sign of a bar or eating place. As we walked along one quiet street, a man in long kimona (or skirts) stepped out of one of these places, {pencil drawing of described string instrument on right column} plucking a stringed instrument something like this. As he walked down the street he plucked on air, and am older woman, probably a Geisha (for some are older) joined him from across the street, and sang the song very low. They walked fairly fast and popped into another place further down the street. It was fun though for it added greatly to the whole scene. Some streets were quite dark and very quiet, though the city was all around. The houses were so artistic {letters struck out} in every way. Little door ways with some piece of natural wood put in to the mantle or frame. A levey stone perhaps for a step, and though there was barely a foot of room between the bamboo fence on the edge of the street, (there were rarely sidewalks) and the house itself, yet one or two trees or shrubs were always growing, some as high as the roof. Usually a lighted lantern by the door and often the soft light coming through the paper screens. often with a grotesque shadow thrown onto the windows by people moving about inside. Practically every house is of wood, various shades of gray and some new wood of a fence or addition. Often a few shoes outside or perhaps the screens were opened and one could look into a sort of vestibule. A {word struck out: 'few'} number of stores were on each street, just wherever there happened to be one. and nearly all so fascinating I hardly dared look in the windows. Some were full of shoes, rows and rows of them all colors. materials and designs. Other stores had a few ties for men. or perhaps brocaded bags. Then there was the store where they were busy making paper lanterns. A {letters struck out} matted floor a foot above the street level, but dilly enough to have the sliding windows closed to the street. We looked in and watched two young boys painting {letters struck out} with

The man in the gray cloak was still there and we wondered if he were there to attract customers. There were various things we wanted to buy: most improbable things and much to our surprise we found them in these booths. Pete needed some little leather bags to put his camera lenses in and we found a man who evidently made bags of all {letter struck out: 'f'} sizes. What for I can't think. They were long and narrow, a string at the top with a bead on it. you hold the string, push the bead towards the top of the bag, and the bead keeps it closed. We got three bags of soft leather for 15 cents - then we needed a foot of rubber hose, for the developing tank, and to our surprise we came to a booth where a lady had among other things reels of rubber hose as one might sell ribbon. There were long underwear booths, toys, bric a brac, though how people got all the stuff back and forth I couldn't imagine. Two men with {letter struck out} toy pipes they were blowing to make a little {word struck out} ball rise in the air, both men looking so serious and very cross eyed as they watched the ball. Every kind of thing was for sail and even {word struck out} books as they have them in Paris. It was all such fun and its so interesting to see how they display things. The strawberries so carefully laid out on green stuff in boxes. The fresh wrapped in cellophane etc. Everything is interesting. Its fun to be able to go anywhere in the city and feel perfectly safe. Not many large cities you can do that. One thing that I was crazy about was a little stand, like a peanut stand at home that a man pushes round, and then stays on some particular corner for business. There was one of these things attached to a bicycle I think and where you could buy rice and a little food, just something to eat, but the part that intrigued me. was that the thing was made like a building in bright new wood. Japanese style - little sliding windows balconys and all, beautifully done, like a big doll house.

I thought - I was going to get a lot written tonight while Pete was developing films, but either I have to go in and hold some thing or else I'm left in total darkness for ten minutes. However most of the rest he has to do can be done with one light on.

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS "IMPHO TOKYO"

Imperial Hotel Tokyo

Tuesday morning we went downstairs for something and there was an air of great excitement almost more people than the day before and we knew by the paper that the two men from Manchukuo were to deliver their message to the Emperor of Japan from the new Emperor Pu Yi - More pictures were being taken in the garden, and as everyone else had cameras someone told Pete he could use his. After the garden scene was snapped, the photographers, about thirty hurried out to the drive - way, so as to be less conspicuous we went up onto a balcony over the front entrance. Out on the main street was a row of men on horseback, part of the Imperial guard I think. All dressed in red and looking very grand on horse back. 'Hebaya?' Park across the road was lined with people. Then two carriages drove in, all covered with emerald green {word struck out: 'silk'} brocaded silk. They looked like caskets but a bit too gay - They drew up where we could see nicely. The footman and driver jumped down off each and began preparing the carriages to take the Premier and minister to the Palace. The green covering was carefully rolled off and folded up. {word struck out: 'then'} and underneath were - beautiful closed carriages - the windows were taken out and slipped into the door some how, the back folded into place, and two of the most gorgeous carriages appeared upholstered in pale grayish brocade, maybe it was gold and silver. The 'footmen?' had white plumes across the top of their hats, and it was a sight, a beautiful spring day too. We were at this crucial moment hustled off the balcony, because no one is allowed in Japan to look down from above on anyone higher than themselves. Luckily a very nice Japanese fellow, realised our plight and showed us a way downstairs through corridors and up outside, where we could see the carriages drive by. We were just in time The Premier in the first carriage, in his long dark dress and

single Chinese hat with a red ball on top. A man in plumes sitting opposite him. Then the next Imperial carriage with the minister, followed by five other open carriages, only black and not as elaborate with various dignitaries, top hats and all. It was a remarkable thing to see and it is a very rare occasion when there is a reason for the Imperial carriages to be used.

We had just gotten back to the room when a caller arrived - a Mr Nagasawa who was sent by Dr Anesaki, to take us to the Imperial University then if we cared or any time, We decided to go right then, and so got ready. By the time we were out on the street all the traffic was being stopped for it was time for the Premier and party to return from the Palace. So we waited. It was interesting to see the crowd of people on the side walk. All very orderly. they weren't allowed to cross the side streets or more from where they were. All traffic was halted. Then we could see them coming and soon the men on horse back trotted by, a 'Banza ?' for the Premier from the people. More horses after the two Imperial coaches. then the other carriages. I think a few more horses and then a little brown car full of officers, and a policeman on a bycycle which struck me as rather incongruous.

Mr Nagasawa took us up to the Library of the University. It was the {last letter struck out} first time we had driven along the inner moat, where he told us that all streets leading there are irregular and were planned that way, so in case of invasion it would be harder to reach the Palace. there being no direct road leading to it. Then up through the streets you probably have walked on. and some stores and shops you may have been in. for lots of places can't have changed. Then through the Red gate, a {letter stuck out} very old red Laquer gate way. a large gate in the center and {illegible: 'a'} smaller one on either side. It was there when you were - We went to the waiting room next Dr Anesaki's office. I never realized that {word struck out: 'heas'} he was the librarian of the library, but is retiring this spring as he is now sixty (or maybe seventy, no sixty)

TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS 'IMPHO TOKYO'

Imperial Hotel Tokyo

It took some time to find him, but at last he was located at the Professors Club, and asked us if we would come over if I didn't mind being the only lady among a lot of men. It is quite a small club, very simple wooden building with dining room and sitting room. Very plain and full of Professors. Dr Anesaki seemed very glad to see us and was very jolly and lots of fun. quite different from at Banff, where they were all rather serious. He introduced us to several men who's fathers knew Grandpa or they knew him. Then we were invited to have lunch and sat at a long table. there being three such tables seating about thirty. Dr Yatsu who met Grandpa first in 1906, but since he died, he has been to Salem to visit his grave, and also went to the Peabody Museum three times. He was very nice and also lots of fun, and had spent two weeks in the Hawaiian Islands with a Mr Ishi{line after}, sounded like Ishikawa but wasn't, who later talked to me. A Mr {word illegible} was younger but his father was a {word struck out: 'pupil'}student of Grandpas'. Half way through lunch I spied Dr Takaki who came to lunch in Concord, and he was much surprised to see us and as nice as ever. Thinks if he ever goes to Cambridge he would like to live in Concord, it was so lovely and restful. I thought that Sunday as noisy and hectic as any could be. but he evidently thoroughly enjoyed it.

The lunch was very delicious. a sort of fried crab or lobster and hot curried something that was awfully good. It was really great fun. After lunch Dr Anesaki and Dr Takaki took us for a walk around the part where they thought you might have lived. Most of the buildings of the University are brand new. but the garden in the hollow is still

there, about half way between the Red Gate to where the Professors lived. They thought it was there then. Also two large trees 200 years old, looked like Maples are near where the Professors Houses were. Dr Anesaki showed us the old wooden building he had lived in when he was in college 15 years after Grandpa was there (must be sixty not seventy) We also saw the large hall with unusually wonderful [e...rastics]. Then went back to the library.

The library is very large and a useful sort of building, built with extra pillars very thick and every few feet inside, so it seems. By useful I mean that most of the space inside is utilized. There is one very large room. with long windows, used on special occasions with a long long table in the center and chairs. Along one side up high are Photographic Portraits of the {word struck out: 'various'} Presidents of the University and under them is a beautiful case divided into four sections, in memory of the four men who gave their libraries to the university. There is a large photograph of each man. The one of Grandpa is excellent. the one looking at the tea jar. enlarged to about 16 by 18 inches. It is a beautiful enlargement and couldn't be a better portrait. I don't usually like large photographs of people, but this doesn't seem so large. I imagine because of the room being so big. Also in the same case was a copy of the letter from John D. Rockefeller for giving the money necessary to rebuild the library. I never realized before he had done that. I think it was a million dollars. Then there were some ashes and burnt glass and all that remained of the previous library. It was all very nicely done and if possible we will try to take a picture of it for you. Dr Anesaki was awfully busy trying to move and I felt badly to think we had taken as much of his time, but he seemed glad to do it. He sent us with a very nice young man who showed us some of the books in the stacks that had belonged